California Calling

When we moved out of California three years ago, we didn’t think we’d be back for a while. And yet, we’ve traveled back twice since then. We just can’t seem to stay away.

This time, we wondered why we left in the first place.

Oakland Hills

We were in a state of flow the entire trip, the most enjoyable one to date with a toddler in tow. It helped that our rental home was high up in the Hills, where we felt like we were floating on clouds. The nicest place we’ve rented, by far.

There were stairs, so many stairs. We counted 50 steps alone to get down to the garden. We embraced them though, our legs now slightly more toned and our cardio slightly improved. The four stories of stairs were well worth the views on views on views.

Sibley Volcanic Regional Preserve

Hiking with a three year-old is interesting. He’s too big for the stroller, which didn’t fare well on the rocky trails anyway. He wanted to stop often to collect and chuck rocks, which didn’t bode well with his father who wanted to hike continuously. And, we underestimated the sun, failing to slather him with sunscreen.

But, we considered it a win getting him out in nature. We breathed in the intoxicating smell of bay leaves, eucalyptus trees, and the super blooms. We said hi to all of the dogs on the trail, missing our own Buddha back in Illinois. Coming from the flatlands, our glutes were grateful for the elevation. When we lived here and hiked Sibley on weekends, we took it for granted. Now, we know how special it is.

While heading back to our trailhead, I went down the slippery slope of asking Bub if he wanted to take a picture of Steve and me. I handed him my phone (on airplane mode) and for the rest of our 10-day trip, he offered to take photos of us - just to feel the phone in his hands. What have I started.

Tilden Little Farm

We came here last year with Bub and it is one of my favorite places for little ones. You can bring your own lettuce and celery to feed the animals. It’s attached to the Tilden Nature Area, giving us the option to hike afterwards. There is something about seeing children gently interact with animals that is such a joy to witness.

Photo by Bub

Mill Valley

Going out for dinner, whether at a restaurant or a friend’s house, became the norm on this trip. I’ve dreamed of having a family that tried all different types of foods and restaurants together. I’m slowly realizing this dream and it took getting over my fear of 1) leaving the house and 2) letting my kid eat something I didn’t cook. Easy for most parents to do. Very hard for me.

In Mill Valley, we went to the Watershed Restaurant, where we ordered the sardines on toast. Crispy sardines on a layer of avocado mash, topped with pickled peppers, on hearty sourdough bread - surprisingly delicious.

After lunch, we looked for a park nearby to take Bub. Steve found Old Mill Park a few minutes away. When we drove up to it, I was in awe. There is a photo on my vision board of a place like this playground. In the photo, a group of children are playing outside at a forest school. Surrounded by tall, strong trees. A place where kids can play freely in nature, in the fresh air. For over an hour, we chucked rocks in the stream, played hide-and-seek between the giant redwoods, and enjoyed a playground so different than the ones we see in Illinois.

Oakland Zoo

We met up with my best friend and his family at the Oakland Zoo, a place with over 11,000 positive Google reviews - the most I’ve ever seen. Before having kids, there was no reason for me to go to any zoo. Wildlife in captivity, overpriced food, children running around like animals. Wouldn’t touch the place with a ten-foot pole. Then I had a kid and was convinced to visit the Oakland Zoo primarily for the gondola ride everyone raves about.

When Bub was a baby, I used to tell Steve that we’d always put Bub’s needs first. We agreed we’d leave any place if Bub ever needed to feed, nap, or go to bed. A nice excuse to have when we wanted to leave a place early. But on this day at the zoo, nobody wanted to leave. Four hours flew by before Steve and I debated whether to stay or go (as Bub tiredly spaced out in the bat exhibit). Excited by all the activities and things to see (the gondola did not disappoint). Full from the cafeteria pizza and hamburger he had for lunch. Exhausted from running in the sun. Thirsty from finishing his milk and only having tap water to drink (I know, I spoil him). We asked ourselves, “Do we let him fall asleep in the wagon? Do we go home now to nap? Do we risk staying a little longer and skip a nap completely?”

I didn’t know what to do. I should put Bub’s needs first. We should have left an hour ago so he could nap in a bed. But, I didn’t want to leave. I wanted to stay and hang out with my friends. Friends I only get to see once a year. I made the not-so-great parenting decision of staying another half an hour and feeding Bub chocolate Dippin’ Dots. We left shortly after and didn’t even get to check out the amusement rides. Pretty sure I was the one who was pouting when we left.

NAPA

Google “kid-friendly wineries in Napa” and Frog’s Leap Winery will appear in the results. Let me tell you that the only “kid-friendly” thing about Frog’s Leap Winery is the garden, albeit a very large and organic garden. I was hoping to order a charcuterie board while Steve sipped some wine, but the winery only offered tastings (which I’m sure is common in Napa given wineries would need to go through the hassle of obtaining food and alcohol licenses). Nevertheless, we had a lovely time running through the flowers, clucking at the chickens, petting the property dog, and pointing out the frogs in the pond.

Steve looked up a couple places nearby we could have lunch at and I chose The Charter Oak Restaurant in Helena solely based on the picture of soft-serve I saw. “I want that,” I told Steve decidedly. “Alrighty,” Steve chuckled as he drove us to the nicest restaurant we’ve ever taken a toddler. Throughout our expensive meal, we caught Bub chucking the housemade playdough the hostess gave us, told Bub repeatedly to put his shoes back on, and tried to convince him to eat a couple of vegetables while he impatiently waited for his ice cream. My only regret is that we didn’t order two soft-serve ice creams.

Friends, food, & fog

Memorial Day weekend was dedicated to seeing our friends and family as much as we could. Difficult with a toddler who finds adult conversations boring. One of us was always entertaining him so that the other could catch up with friends.

Steve and I started to pretend that this was our day-to-day life. We got used to the fog greeting us in the mornings and in the evenings. We remembered to always carry sunscreen with us for when the sun would inevitably appear midday. We thought about which neighborhoods we’d want to live in as we drove through them and which schools we’d want Bub to attend. Even though we’ve made the decision to settle in Illinois, we still wrestle with the dream of coming back west for good. As Steve reassured everyone throughout the week, “It’s not a matter of if. It’s a matter of when.”

The fog in the morning

The view midday

The sunset on a clear night

Goodbye super cool house

Thanks for the photo ops, Bub

Thanks for the largest organic strawberries, Berkeley Bowl

Thanks for the good food and fast service, United Dumplings

Thanks for letting us chat at friends’ houses, Bub, while you sat quietly and ate watermelon

Thank you, Ajanta, for the meal Steve and I look forward to every time we visit

Thanks for letting us borrow the Batmobile, Batman

NYC Getaway

This trip was a chance for me to quite literally get away from the mundanity and complacency of my life at home. After two back-to-back weeks of Steve traveling and me watching Bub on my own, I needed a break to rejuvenate my soul.

Deep down, I fear a banal existence. I crave creativity, progress, and originality. I seek diversity and difference. Things I miss when I’m living the motherhood routine day in and day out in the ‘burbs. I struggle to incorporate these values into mine and Bub’s life, especially when I’m serving up the same meals and activities everyday.

I knew NYC was the right place for me to get away. I’ve written about my love for NYC before. There’s something about this city that revitalizes me. The array of cuisines, the unique boutiques, the insane museums, the ease of getting to it all by subway. I’ve always found New Yorkers so kind and welcoming. Somehow, I feel at home.

A bit ironic when my very goal is to get away from the word.

This trip, I ate where my heart desired. Fluffy blueberry pancakes with melted maple butter at Clinton St. Baking Company. Hot dog with onions, sauerkraut, and mustard from The Hot Dog King. Sushi at Sugarfish. I pampered myself with a prenatal massage and facial and felt like a queen. I perused secondhand stores with all the time in the world.

I made a point to visit the Crossings exhibit at the Met, where Robert Colescott’s and Kara Walker’s versions of Washington Crossing the Delaware made me excited about art again. I found inspiration in the early 20th century American paintings of our natural landscapes. A reminder of the abuse we’ve inflicted on our environment, wildlife, and indigenous communities in just a short century. I imagined how different the world would be had colonizers learned from them instead of conquering them. Before I left the museum, I stopped and stared at John Brown storming into the frame with abolitionism. For the first time that I can remember, I went to the art museum and breezed by the European exhibits and instead, spent more time in the American ones. For someone who once wanted to major in art history and move to Europe, this was a significant moment for me - symbolic of my recent resolutions in life.

I used to dream about being a mom in the city. Glamorously pushing my baby in a stroller while crossing Fifth Ave - my long hair waving in the wind. Walking through Central Park with my toddler, stopping at the zoo. Discussing fine art with my 10-year old as we ponder a Van Gogh at the Guggenheim. Skipping to a date night dinner with Steve at Gramercy Tavern. Riding the subway on weekends with the whole family.

Then, I had a kid and intense postpartum anxiety. Triggered by cigarette smoke and carbon exhaust, terrified of construction sites and congested places, my dreams of having a family in the city were dashed.

But this trip, I saw tons of children, seemingly everywhere. I saw parents pushing strollers with multiple kids - in narrow restaurants on Lexington, on the subway, in the chaos of SoHo, through the crowds at Chelsea Market, and at 8:30 pm at the Met. I saw parents walk down the street with their kids without batting an eye at the smoker or noticing at all the truck that sped by. These parents appeared to stroll with ease. These parents are my heroes. And guess what, I tell myself, their kids are thriving.

Someday, maybe someday, I’ll bring my kids to New York City. But for now, I’m going to keep it to myself and enjoy it as much as I can.

Carmel-by-the-Sea

Oh, Carmel. How do I love thee.

Let me count the ways…

I love the ocean views.

I love that the entire village is walkable.

I love that the cottages have names instead of numbers.

I love how dog-friendly it is.

I love that it’s only a two-hour drive from the city.

If I had $3 million lying around, I would buy a home here in a heartbeat. Carmel is the epitome of “cute” and “quaint”. I think I say “how cute” at least a hundred times when I’m visiting.

Dare I say it, I love Carmel more than Napa. The wine culture can be found here as well. There are wine bars, extensive wine lists, and specialty wine shops every few feet. But, I get the ocean when I come to Carmel and that has made all the difference.

Where to stay

Carmel is a touristy town and there are adorable inns throughout. There aren’t many Airbnb options (I’m assuming so as not to take business away from the long-standing inns here). Most inns offer breakfast and are dog-friendly. Carmel is the #1 dog friendly town in the US after all.

Where to Eat

Cottage for breakfast

Carmel Bakery for a sandwich (built in 1899, they’re the oldest running retail business in town)

Stationæry for a salad (their homemade chai is good too)

Patisserie Boissiere for a sweet treat

Mission Ranch for an awesome view

There are plenty of delicious places to eat, not only in Carmel but in nearby Monterey and Seaside. I haven’t had a bad meal in the area yet!

what to see

Carmel Beach is one of my favorite places because it’s huge and filled with happy, frolicky dogs. It’s truly a dog’s paradise. We love going straight to the beach when we arrive, tiring our pup out first, and then walking around town.

17 Mile Drive and Pebble Beach are cool to see at least once. We paid an entry fee at one of the gates ($10 cash) but there’s probably a way to get onto the drive for free. We just haven’t found it yet. The drive takes you along the coast, which is scenic for sure, and there are plenty of lookout points to stop at. You also get to see the famous Pebble Beach and the Equestrian Center.

The Carmel Mission Basilica Museum is beautiful to see and walking distance from Mission Ranch. It has a $10 entrance fee.

Ocean Avenue is the what I’d consider Main Street in Carmel. It’s filled with little shops and restaurants. It’s where you’ll find Carmel Bakery. Once you’ve seen Ocean Avenue, you can explore the side streets, like Lincoln and Dolores, and the charming courtyards and secret passageways sprinkled all over downtown.

Italy

From Munich, we hopped on a quick flight to Venice. Along the way, we were able to see the beautiful mountains of northern Italy. In seemingly a blink of an eye, we went from cold, rainy Munich to sunny, sweltering Venice.

Venice

How is it that a one-hour flight can transport us to a different world? Venice could not have been more different than Munich in terms of weather, culture, and scenery. Our cab from the Venice airport dropped us off at the edge of the city, right near the train station. Vehicles were no longer allowed beyond that point, which I discovered had its pros and cons.

Pros:

• It's lovely to be able to walk around a city and not worry about congestion or being hit by cars.
• It keeps the city nice and quiet.

Cons:

• It's easy to get lost and stay lost. We quickly discovered that navigating Venice's streets was like finding our way through a labyrinth.
• It's less convenient. We watched a group of men try to move furniture on a boat instead of a moving truck.

Parts of Venice made me feel like I was at Disney World, as if I was in a make-believe version of Italy. Especially with no cars, we were able to wander around as if Venice were a giant historic resort. Once we got away from the crowds, near the Rialto and Piazza San Marco, Venice felt much calmer and neighborly. Every few blocks, we found a little square where locals gathered.

I read in a brochure that one of the best places to view the Grand Canal was from the rooftop terrace of the Frondaco dei Tedeschi department store. We booked our reservations online for a free 15 minute viewing on the rooftop. When we got to the store, we waited in a short line for an absolutely stunning view of the canal.

On our last night in Venice, we had dinner at Osteria Zucca. The best vegetarian lasagna.

“This was Venice, the flattering and suspect beauty this city, half fairy tale and half tourist trap, in whose insalubrious air the arts once rankly and voluptuously blossomed, where composers have been inspired to lulling tones of somniferous eroticism.””

— Thomas Mann

Florence

Florence is one of my favorite cities in the world. I first visited in high school and have such magical memories of my time there. I couldn't wait to show Steve how beautiful it was.

Beautiful though it was, we arrived in Florence just as a heat wave called 'Lucifer' was taking hold of Europe. We had to strategically plan out our days: waking up early to sightsee, recovering back at the hotel between 2 to 5 pm, and coming back out just as the sun was setting. We'd roll back to our hotel around 10 pm, stuffed with pizza, pasta, and prosciutto.

I loved those early mornings. The streets were quiet and free of crowds. It was cool enough to function. And, we still had the whole day ahead of us.

One morning, we took a bike ride to Signa in search of sunflower fields. An hour into our ride, we discovered that we had just missed the season. We found a few fields with dried up sunflowers, a couple weeks past their prime. While sunflowers weren't in the cards for us, we did enjoy biking through the golden Tuscan fields and watching farmers tend to their sheep. It was nice to simply get away from the main tourist spots and get a glimpse of local life.

“Italy is a dream that keeps returning for the rest of your life.”

— Anna Akhmatova

Rome

Our time in Rome felt like one big scavenger hunt. We had less than 24 hours in the city, which meant we tried to check off as many things from the map as possible. Trevi Fountain? Check. Pantheon? Check. St. Peter's Basilica and the Colosseum? Check, check.

Thinking back, it's nice to have photos of these amazing buildings and be able to say I saw them. But, running (well, ambling in our case) from site to site isn't something I'd recommend. I wish I had time to give each building the attention it deserves. Each one has a story and a lesson to be learned. I much prefer spending quality time at each site and we didn't get a chance to do that in Rome.

“Rome is not like any other city. It’s a majestic museum, a living room to tiptoe through.”

— Alberto Sordi

Amalfi

Our last stop in Italy was the Amalfi coast. From Rome, we took the high speed Italo train to Salerno. On the way, we passed Mount Vesuvius, an active volcano with smoke coming out of the top. 

We decided to stay at a B&B in Salerno and take day trips to Amalfi and Positano via the ferry.

On our first full day, Steve surprised me by chartering a boat to take us along the coast. This was one of the best days of our honeymoon trip. Our guide, Antonio, was a 22 year old from Minori who patiently showed us all the sites and took 4932043 photos of us when I asked. He was awesome.

The Amalfi coast is made up of five main towns: Amalfi, Praiano, Positano, Maiori, and Minori. Antonio pointed out each town as we passed by. He stopped and showed us the kissing elephant rock formation, Pandora's Cave, and he let us swim near the Li Galli islands. Bluest waters I've ever seen.

On our second day, we explored Amalfi on our own and ended up hiking to Ravello. A steep climb, mostly in the sun, weaving through the forms on the edge of the mountain. What was really a 1.5 hour hike felt like 4 hours of back-breaking work. That Lucifer heat wave was no joke.

“You may have the universe if I may have Italy.”

— Giuseppe Verdi

In 9 whirlwind days, we visited the whimsical waterways of Venice, the bustling streets of Florence, the crowded piazzas of Rome, and the hidden beaches of the Amalfi coast. Italy is a place I'll never forget.